Your guide to mastering the pencil technique
By Jordyn Christensen
Beauty Crew Contributor / March 15 2017
The makeup trend that reshapes your natural eye shape
From creating the illusion of sharper cheekbones to opening and brightening our eyes with a single swipe of eyeshadow, it’s amazing what makeup can do to enhance our features in ways we never knew possible. The latest makeup trend on the scene hails from Eastern Europe and utilises a brow or eye pencil and the natural shadows of your eye to create the illusion of lifted and larger peepers. See why the Internet is raving about this technique and then try it for yourself.
Start along the lower lash line
Along the lower lash line from the outer corner down to the lowest point of your eye, draw short strokes from the root of the lashes outwards: kind of like the Twiggy-eye effect, but so subtle you can’t actually see the lines. Then with a stiff flat brush, drag out the edge of the liner you just applied to extend and blend it outwards – don’t go too close to the waterline, you only need to drag out the very tip of the lines you drew.
Create the illusion of a lifted eye
Next, you want to help lift the look of your eyes. From the outer corner of your lower lash line, draw a soft diagonal line upwards in the direction of your brow’s edge– similar to how you do a winged eyeliner, but following your natural eye angle is super important. This is going to be your guideline when applying your eyeshadow.
Continue your strokes
Look straight ahead: just above where your eye crease starts – using the technique you used in step one – feather short strokes with your eyeliner beside your guideline (remembering to only work above your eye crease). Use your crease as the base of your strokes. Move inwards along the crease and make your strokes shorter as you go. Stop at the highest point (generally about half way along) of your eye. You’ll end up with a bit of a winged eye, only it will all be above your crease and won’t connect with your lash line. Tip: Use the flat side of your eyeliner or brow pencil, not the sharp tip, as the line needs to be soft not harsh. Again with your brush – holding it flat against the skin, grab just the upper edge of the liner you just applied and drag it upwards in short movements to blend it out.
Fill in the gap
Now you need to fill in the gap you’ve made between your lower lash line and eyelid on the outer edge of your eye. Use the same brush stroke and blend technique along the gap in the direction of the guideline you drew.
Blend, blend, blend
Next step: Draw more lines from the inner edge of your guideline towards the bridge of your nose and blend.
After this, you will have created the frame for a flawless eye shape that’s lifted, open and a beautiful almond shape. From here you can create your desired eye makeup look – just make sure you apply some kind of eyeshadow over the top as the frame you’ve created is to build the right shape, and won’t look complete without a wash of eyeshadow to mask the lines.
For a little extra help, and to see the creation of the look in real time, see this tutorial video.
If you’re happy using your eyeliner in a more traditional way, here’s how to master the smudged liner look at any age.